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A storied and luxurious South Indian bastion, circa 1890? Check. Dozens of acres of lush and lovely gardens? Check. A few saucy resident peacocks? Check. Welcome to Gateway Madurai, an alluring retreat perched high above the eponymous, equally exotic city. A rather magical blend of heritage and modernity is present, well-appreciated during a limb-stretching stroll round private grounds shaded by craggy banyan trees and shared with rainbow-catching peacocks. Perched atop Pasumalai Hill, we are ideally situated for fascinating forays to the Mudurai masterpieces that animate our thoughts and creativity – high among them a peripatetic tour of the Temple Trail’s ancient towering sculptures, ornate shrines, and musical pillars. The flower market is a heady experience filled with the scent of jasmine and all colours known to humankind and its makers. All in all, a winning base from which to explore this intoxicating bit of India.
Overlooking the gardens and the city, 63 well-appointed and delightfully airy bedrooms and suites are furnished with rich woods and a tinge of Colonial-era charm. In addition to the more than 60 acres of verdant grounds, there’s a full fitness centre, beautiful outdoor swimming pool, and a relaxing spa to round out the experience. Appetites can run high on a grand tour such as this: both international and fragrant local cuisines are served at the all-day Vista restaurant. For a romantic dinner, relax under the stars on The Moon Deck, or enjoy a luxuriant evening beneath the Canopy where cocktails and meals are taken in the shade of 150-year-old banyan trees.
All manner of spiritual and sensual intoxications await, mere steps or a short chauffeured drive away. From the aminated Madurai street life that bustles with traders and artisanal riches (a rich trove for picking up a few, or indeed quite a lot, of beautiful things to take home) to the archaeological treasures of Keeladi and the mystical Meenakshi Amman Temple – the city is a living monument to the richness of Hindu spiritualism and the fascinating cultures that comprise South India. When it’s time to return to the sanctum, perhaps there’s a moment for some yoga, or for an invigorating rally on one of the outdoor tennis courts. And naturally, many a rewarding hour may be spent lapping in – or simply lapping up, the grand palm-lined swimming pool, or in the rejuvenating spa whose massages and treatments weave the ancient with the modern.
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